Cayucos

The ocean, for me, has a healing quality just as powerful as walking in a forest among tall trees and birdsong. If you've read The Dogs Who Saved Me, you know that I grew up near the ocean, and when I was younger, in my worst times, I retreated there--first by bike, then later by car.

That didn't change when I grew into middle age. I still went to the ocean for solace, even though I lived much farther from it, and nowadays the bit of the ocean I visit isn't in Southern California, it's along the Central Coast. If you've never been there, just trust me when I say, it's a magical place. If your soul needs healing, go there.

When I decided to attend the annual Steinbeck Festival, I thought I might stay over in Cayucos on my way up to Salinas. If you're unfamiliar, Cayucos is the little town just north of Morro Bay. It's the home of the Brown Butter Cookie Company, and the beach front boasts a long, beautiful pier that stretches out into deep water.

The last time I drove to Morro Bay, up Interstate 101, it took me seven hours--a trip that should take five hours if you slow down a bit to appreciate the ocean out your driver's side window. So this time, I drove the back roads--through Palmdale, up, around, over and across on several two-lane highways, just me and the agricultural trucks rolling along. It was great. With all the meandering I did, it still only took me five hours, and I drove some beautiful country roads, especially when I got closer to the coast.

At 4:00p.m., I checked into my very clean and spacious room at the Cayucos Beach Inn, took a quick shower, then walked downtown--a half-mile stroll--for dinner.

The restaurant I had intended to patronize was closed, so I strolled another quarter mile to the Cass House. This is what I ate:

Focaccia baked on site with warm, rosemary-infused olive oil and sea salt 

Roasted cauliflower in lemon yogurt with toasted almonds, mint and pomegranate vinaigrette  

Flourless chocolate torte with sea salt

Just to be clear, I only ate half the torte. I saved the other half for the next day. Needless to say, I was a pretty happy, relaxed camper when I strolled out onto the pier after dinner. From there, I could see all the way down the coast to Morro Rock in Morro Bay.

I slept deeply and comfortably that night. The next morning, Friday, I awoke to fog shrouding the town and the beach. Hurrah! This is my favorite weather for walking the beach. I went down about 7:00, and, no surprise, on the wide expanse of beach I found dog prints right away. Through the mist, I could make out the outlines of a few canines and their humans. And then, looming up from the sand, I saw what might have been a rock... but very well could have been a sleeping dragon.

Since I am currently working on a children's series that includes a dragon and is loosely set in Cayucos, I took this sighting as a very good sign.

If--when--I return, will the dragon still be there? I do not know. I do know that I will not wait long to walk on the beach again. That hour ambling along the sand, peering into fresh tide pools, greeting the happy dogs who greeted me in return, listening to the susurration of the surf's rhythm toward me and away, healed my soul a bit and gave me as a take-home gift a basketful of tranquility.